Singapore Nissan Owners Group
Nissan Car Lounge - Almera, Juke, Latio, Qashqai, Sylphy, Teana Owners => Latio => Topic started by: iagree on November 04, 2008, 01:45:44 PM
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Hello guys,
Last Sunday, when i drove back from Msia to JB 2ndlink to SG with 110km/h & 2000 to 2200RPM, my FC has increased back to 17.5km/L.
Song!
Regards.
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reason : aerodynamics
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That's very good fuel economy. :thumbsup:
What's your tyre pressure for front and rear tyres?
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Hello guys,
Last Sunday, when i drove back from Msia to JB 2ndlink to SG with 110km/h & 2000 to 2200RPM, my FC has increased back to 17.5km/L.
Song!
Regards.
Hi iagree,
So great difference meh ? :ohmy:
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Hello guys,
Last Sunday, when i drove back from Msia to JB 2ndlink to SG with 110km/h & 2000 to 2200RPM, my FC has increased back to 17.5km/L.
Song!
Regards.
hi bro iagree, tot u r Mr Cheong lei.. :bleh: :bleh: :bleh:. Must be damn sian rite! :Dozed:
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Hi iagree,
So great difference meh ? :ohmy:
Hi jazz, it's positive. Tried few times b4 in NSHW but can't hit anything near whenever in Sg...
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maybe can get 20km/l if you travel 80km/h? ;D
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So maybe FC is for on traffic condition prior to our right footer then. ;)
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i think so...still finding the theory behind all the FC things..currently try to increase the tyre pressure to 250 and 235 (vs 240 and 220 b4) as recommended by bro fri13th and RG on another forum...Mine in Sg, so far can hit only 13km/l.
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i think so...still finding the theory behind all the FC things..currently try to increase the tyre pressure to 250 and 235 (vs 240 and 220 b4) as recommended by bro fri13th and RG on another forum...Mine in Sg, so far can hit only 13km/l.
Hi LatioR,
Besides increase your tyre pressure, maybe you can try to make your car leaner or lighter. ;)
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done b4 by removing the bady seat weighted >7kgs to smaller one at <2kgs i guess...the FC has slightly improved after this. ====> Next Target, to reduce the driver weight which is ME lah...OK :pray: currently at 75Kgs to 70kgs that will be great :lahlahlah:
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i think so...still finding the theory behind all the FC things..currently try to increase the tyre pressure to 250 and 235 (vs 240 and 220 b4) as recommended by bro fri13th and RG on another forum...Mine in Sg, so far can hit only 13km/l.
my pressure is 245 and 235 for front and back tyres..
but will going up to 250 be dangerous?? less contact with the floor, skidding.. etc..
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my pressure is 245 and 235 for front and back tyres..
but will going up to 250 be dangerous?? less contact with the floor, skidding.. etc..
Defintiely more dangerous if increase tyre pressure...some more our latio CG very high...on wet or windy conditions road....becareful....also watch out for small deris on the road when driving with such high pressure tyres at high speed....a small stone or rock can send ur car spinning and skid....
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please correct me but won't overinflating our tyres make our ride more bouncy thus decreasing ride comfort?
hee, now post also very stressful in case give wrong info :fighting:
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please correct me but won't overinflating our tyres make our ride more bouncy?
hee, now post also very stressful in case give wrong info :fighting:
yes...the same analogy can be used on bicycle...if u pump ur bicycle tyre to very "full" (high pressure), it becomes more bouncy but less grip on the ground...tat is why usually those 4X4 off road vehicle has flatter tyres...to improve grip...but this also means more drag which translate into consuming more fuel....u have to see wat is ur tolerance for personal safety to personal bank account safety is....varies from person to person...
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please correct me but won't overinflating our tyres make our ride more bouncy thus decreasing ride comfort?
hee, now post also very stressful in case give wrong info :fighting:
Why stressful? ;D
Overinflating your tyres also causes unever wear on your tyres. The centre of your tyres will wear out faster.
With less cushioning and shock absorbed from the tyres, your shocks also wear out faster to an extent.
Most important thing to note about overinflation of tyres is the safety aspect. It reduces the amount of contact your tyre has with the road, resulting in lesser grip when you need it most.
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Like i mention in another thread, I hope TLC will remain friendly just like before, those who had also surf mycarforum will realise how unfriendly it is nowadays.
I think there must be some misunderstanding between you and some other bros, perhaps it will be good to tone down or maybe attend some meetups so that people will get to know you better thus diffussing the current situation.
I am sorry as I may not be the right person to say all these as I don't attend meet-ups myself.
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The different opinion was a result of individual definition what is over-inflating. By car manufacturer recommendation or by tyre specification.
I agree there will be uneven wear due to non optimum setting for any product but we have to be practical. You notice the design different for car tyre and motorcycle tyre? The cross section shape is different. IMO, car tyre have ticker, harder and flatter rubber on the road contact side thus have the resistance to flex at that section that cause centre of your tyres wear out faster.
When you pump more or pump much less, you first notice the side wall change shape much obvious than the flat contact point right? Say the centre part will bulge and wear out to an extent, but by how much? Just look at your own old tyre when you change them. If centre part wears more, ok you really over-inflate; if side wear out more, ok you can pump more; if you still have thread all over, then don
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Like i mention in another thread, I hope TLC will remain friendly just like before, those who had also surf mycarforum will realise how unfriendly it is nowadays.
I think there must be some misunderstanding between you and some other bros, perhaps it will be good to tone down or maybe attend some meetups so that people will get to know you better thus diffussing the current situation.
I am sorry as I may not be the right person to say all these as I don't attend meet-ups myself.
Hehe....I dun attend meet-up also....actually, attended meet up in other internet forums many years ago...then found myself so out-of-place....somehow can't "talk" as freely as on forums....i guess it is the security of hiding behind my user names tat makes me open up more....hehe...
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Actually, pumping more air is much safer than having not enough air. The common misconception that pump more air will lead ur tires to bulge is because last time tires were poorly designed. Now new tires have steel belts in them, so its perfectly ok to pump more air.
I pump 300 on all 4, and combined with slower driving at 90km/h, I achieve FC of 19+km/l constantly. There's other techniques as well though.
People often complained that my ride is bumpy. Yeah, it is, but when I told them I'm getting 19km/l, they go "oooh". So its a matter of whether you want to ride comfortably or save money, and considering the roads in SG are already relatively smooth, I'd go with saving money anytime. ;D
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Hello guys,
Last Sunday, when i drove back from Msia to JB 2ndlink to SG with 110km/h & 2000 to 2200RPM, my FC has increased back to 17.5km/L.
Song!
Regards.
Despite some saying about 90km/hr is the sweet spot for latio FC. I personal experience also agrees with you. Came back from Cameron Highland along NSHW, controlling within the speed limit of 110km/hr, I also hit 17.1km/l...
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Actually, pumping more air is much safer than having not enough air. The common misconception that pump more air will lead ur tires to bulge is because last time tires were poorly designed. Now new tires have steel belts in them, so its perfectly ok to pump more air.
I pump 300 on all 4, and combined with slower driving at 90km/h, I achieve FC of 19+km/l constantly. There's other techniques as well though.
People often complained that my ride is bumpy. Yeah, it is, but when I told them I'm getting 19km/l, they go "oooh". So its a matter of whether you want to ride comfortably or save money, and considering the roads in SG are already relatively smooth, I'd go with saving money anytime. ;D
thats very good fc :thumbsup:
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I pump 300 on all 4, and combined with slower driving at 90km/h, I achieve FC of 19+km/l constantly. There's other techniques as well though.
300 is at the upper limit the my tyre spec.. There's no margin left.
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I know people who constantly exceed 300, don't worry, it won't explode LOL.
Besides, if you check the tire, they say maximum safety load is if tires are at 300kPa, so I think its safer to have properly inflated tires when carrying more load. Not very sure about this part though, any bros care to clarify?
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My take is that fuel economy is not worth it at the expense of safety.
If you pump 300Ka when the tyres are cold, after constant driving and the tyre heats up, the pressure will exceed 300KPa.
You can bend down and look at a tyre inflated to 300KPa. Its sides or corners of the thread would be tilting upwards.
To see the amount of tyre contact your tyre has with the road, rinse your tyre thread with water to clear off all dirt, then drive a short distance, and look at your tyre thread again, you will see dirt sticking onto the parts of your tyre which has contact with the road.
Or just drive your dry tyres over a damp road, and the wet part indicates the part of your tyre thread that has contact with the road.
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If you're not comfortable with tires at maximum sidewall pressure, you can follow a general rule of maximum-10%. So 270 is a perfectly good place to start with, if you don't mind the bumps.
Tires bulging at the middle is something from way back when tires did not have steel belts. Nowadays, higher pressure leads to much better wear. So in fact, higher pressure makes your car safer.
Check out this link for more info.
http://www.officer.com/web/online/Editorial-and-Features/Driving-Under-Pressure/19$27281 (http://www.officer.com/web/online/Editorial-and-Features/Driving-Under-Pressure/19$27281)
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hi SoL, look like u r the #1 top tyre pressure within TLC liao..RG at 280 & 260 will be 2nd and bro fri13th #3 i think at 270 and 250. Nevertheless, do take into consideration of safety too, OK. Mine started off with my very old car at 210 for all tyre. Then on latio, started with the recommended pressure at 230 and 210. Now started to slowly increased to 240/220 and to 250/235 now...the car feel much lighter now...In Sg, the rd is perfectly for high pressure tyre but don't think so in Malaysia..
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please correct me but won't overinflating our tyres make our ride more bouncy thus decreasing ride comfort?
hee, now post also very stressful in case give wrong info :fighting:
hi bro dsrio, don't worry so much abt giving wrong info lah...some expert outside there will be ready to give their expert view one lah...by the way, to each is his own mah! Nothing wrong or right one lah..any exp shared is very important to all.
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hi SoL, look like u r the #1 top tyre pressure within TLC liao..RG at 280 & 260 will be 2nd and bro fri13th #3 i think at 270 and 250. Nevertheless, do take into consideration of safety too, OK. Mine started off with my very old car at 210 for all tyre. Then on latio, started with the recommended pressure at 230 and 210. Now started to slowly increased to 240/220 and to 250/235 now...the car feel much lighter now...In Sg, the rd is perfectly for high pressure tyre but don't think so in Malaysia..
Yeah, in Msia I'll reduce pressure because of bumpy roads and long-D driving. Here in Singapore I feel that its ok to ride with high pressure.
But I still find it weird that car makers place tire pressure recommendations on their car. After all, they don't make the tires. I can't help but think if its a conspiracy to make us think latio ride is very smooth by asking us to use lower pressure. :glare:
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maybe u r rite...by the way, what's the pressure travelling in Malaysia?
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In msia I think around 260 or 270 is ok bah. If not NSH but those kinda bumpy roads, reduce even more. Not very sure about this, you might want to ask those bros who frequent Msia.
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Yeah, in Msia I'll reduce pressure because of bumpy roads and long-D driving. Here in Singapore I feel that its ok to ride with high pressure.
But I still find it weird that car makers place tire pressure recommendations on their car. After all, they don't make the tires. I can't help but think if its a conspiracy to make us think latio ride is very smooth by asking us to use lower pressure. :glare:
I suspect when they POC a particular model, the recommended pressure will yield a balanced FC and stability according to the presence of the manufacture. (I could be wrong, haha)
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Despite some saying about 90km/hr is the sweet spot for latio FC. I personal experience also agrees with you. Came back from Cameron Highland along NSHW, controlling within the speed limit of 110km/hr, I also hit 17.1km/l...
Hi Ender
iagree. Light footed is always the best ^$^
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Hi Ender
iagree. Light footed is always the best ^$^
Hi iagree,
Light footer is 1 of the best but not always the best, there are few factors contributing to good FC, tyre pressure, weight of the car and traffic condition. ;)
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I think for me the biggest improvement to my FC comes from the way I drive.
Braking reduces FC.
I see some people chiong off at traffic light and then brake hard at a red light 50m ahead. Or people braking for no reason on expressway.
One technique I use is to pretend I'm driving without brakes. Brake only when you have to. That way you won't accelerate or brake needlessly and your FC will definitely have a big improvement. Plus you save on brake pad replacement. ;D
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hi
well, i aso agree with SoL & Jazz :)
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I think for me the biggest improvement to my FC comes from the way I drive.
Braking reduces FC.
I see some people chiong off at traffic light and then brake hard at a red light 50m ahead. Or people braking for no reason on expressway.
One technique I use is to pretend I'm driving without brakes. Brake only when you have to. That way you won't accelerate or brake needlessly and your FC will definitely have a big improvement. Plus you save on brake pad replacement. ;D
Shouldn't be Braking increases FC.
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Oh yeah Jazz you're right!
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Oh yeah Jazz you're right!
hi
u both kong si mi?
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Braking waste petrol because the distance you can travel with a litre of petrol is reduced since u brake. Energy is lost as heat because you brake mah. Thats why braking increases your fuel consumption.
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Braking waste petrol because the distance you can travel with a litre of petrol is reduced since u brake. Energy is lost as heat because you brake mah. Thats why braking increases your fuel consumption.
hi SoL,
iagree with u loh.
lousier FC loh if so.
regards.
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In msia I think around 260 or 270 is ok bah. If not NSH but those kinda bumpy roads, reduce even more. Not very sure about this, you might want to ask those bros who frequent Msia.
i'm frequently to malaysia but not like u at very high pressure mah (believed not many ppl like u)
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you feel nothing when you drive for short distance. Try driving to Ipoh with high pressure, those in the car especially back seat will feel very uncomfortable and very tiring.
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hi ying, wat's yr tyre pressure in Sg and while travel to malaysia? My at 250 and 235 now and intend to try this pressure at malaysia too. Will take small step to increase the tyre pressure to 260~270 later on in Sg.
Hi anyone know abt the spare tyre pressure, notice something written on tyre like "inflat to 420kpa or 60psi" yesterday night. Not sure if it's correct or not? Decided to top up to 250kpa instead (my spare tyre is smaller one, yr 2005). thanks.
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@LatioR
Spare tire is definitely at higher pressure. Stick to wad is said on the tire. It unbelievably high, but thats normal.
@ying
I seldom drive long D, so I don't really know. If your pressure is comfortable for you, by all means go ahead. But be careful, long D driving with underinflated tires is dangerous.
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hi ying, wat's yr tyre pressure in Sg and while travel to malaysia? My at 250 and 235 now and intend to try this pressure at malaysia too. Will take small step to increase the tyre pressure to 260~270 later on in Sg.
Hi anyone know abt the spare tyre pressure, notice something written on tyre like "inflat to 420kpa or 60psi" yesterday night. Not sure if it's correct or not? Decided to top up to 250kpa instead (my spare tyre is smaller one, yr 2005). thanks.
\
wah... 420... will burst or not?
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If the tire writes 420 den pump 420 lor. Better than next time need to use, change to spare also like no change cause spare tire also no air LOL.
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think must wear face mask etc in case it burst on me. i kia si la. haha...
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har? what's written ON the tire is the maximum pressure. it is not the recommend pressure. u should pump the manufacturer's recommended pressure written on the side of the driver door. for spare tyre it is good to keep the same pressure as the front tire (33psi i think). it is ok to exceed - i pump 35psi, but please do not whack until the rating on the tyre sidewall for various safety reasons.
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Hey detach8, if you read my previous post I actually showed why pumping more air is safe. Its ok to stick with the recommended though, just remember to check the pressure fortnightly, because underinflated tires is the thing that's really dangerous.
For the spare tire, I think I read somewhere before that you're supposed to inflate till very high. Can't remember where, maybe manual? Shall check it later if I have time.
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ok, need to clear this out.
what I know is there are two type of spare tyre on sedan Latio.
1) smaller size -- these type have to pump with very high pressure, not all petrol station can support.
2) Full size -- this is just like your other tyre which you pump 33psi.
LatioR,
When I drive in malaysia, 240,230 full load else 230,210. my route have many uneven small road.
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hi bro ying, thanks for the info. Went back to in law house during wkends and just went to KLIA this morning with tyre pressure at 250 and 235 and the drive really uncomfortable but still bearable. Next time mb only pump to 240 and 230 when travelling on NSHW or 250+/230+ while in local. It's really can help the FC, my last FC in NSHW (90% HW and 10% town area), can hit ~16km/l liao vs normally hit ~13km/l+ (of course with the help of changing new EO + engine flush at cousin in law workshop)
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Cool! Another 19+km Latio :-). My last tank was 19.35km/L. Lifetime FC is now 19.07km/L. Record was a 22.12km/L tank.
But my tyres are only at 285/245kPa. Like SoL, I don't think this is a problem. Tyre wear has been even so far.
The "sweet spot" for CVT equipped the Latio is to go as slow as you dare and to keep an eye on the RPM/Speedometer and keep your gear ratio at the tallest possible (about 200rpm for every 10km/h).
With a constant 70km/h, no A/C, I think 24+km/L is possible.
Actually, pumping more air is much safer than having not enough air. The common misconception that pump more air will lead ur tires to bulge is because last time tires were poorly designed. Now new tires have steel belts in them, so its perfectly ok to pump more air.
I pump 300 on all 4, and combined with slower driving at 90km/h, I achieve FC of 19+km/l constantly. There's other techniques as well though.
People often complained that my ride is bumpy. Yeah, it is, but when I told them I'm getting 19km/l, they go "oooh". So its a matter of whether you want to ride comfortably or save money, and considering the roads in SG are already relatively smooth, I'd go with saving money anytime. ;D
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To achieve 24km/l at constant 70km/h without aircon may be possible but only if you wind up your windows and leave a only small gap to allow some air to flow into the cabin.
Or you can wind all your window full up, and turn on the fan mode to allow outside to flow into the cabin.
But if the weather is hot, you will likely be sweating like mad in your car. ;D
If you wind down your windows too low, it creates wind resistance which may affect your record breaking fuel economy. .
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Does anyone in the Forum have the face-lifted Latio with the FC meter?
If so, would the owner be open to collecting some facts that might help the rest of us with no FC meter?
Perform the following FC measurements:
- constant 60km/h, no A/C, both front windows 1" open
- constant 70km/h, no A/C, both front windows 1" open
- constant 80km/h, no A/C, both front windows 1" open
- constant 90km/h, no A/C, both front windows 1" open
Repeat above, but with A/C @ 27C, fan 1, windows closed.
Average over a reasonable distance.
Thanks!
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There's strategy for opening windows too. Lower 1 inch is ok, but open only the driver's and the passenger's rear window. This makes the wind blows diagonally across the car and you can feel the wind better.
Should improve FC too, since air can go in come out in a smooth path, not like 2 front window open.
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Cool! Another 19+km Latio :-). My last tank was 19.35km/L. Lifetime FC is now 19.07km/L. Record was a 22.12km/L tank.
But my tyres are only at 285/245kPa. Like SoL, I don't think this is a problem. Tyre wear has been even so far.
The "sweet spot" for CVT equipped the Latio is to go as slow as you dare and to keep an eye on the RPM/Speedometer and keep your gear ratio at the tallest possible (about 200rpm for every 10km/h).
With a constant 70km/h, no A/C, I think 24+km/L is possible.
Bro,
Care to share how you calculate your FC. :smile:
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Cool! Another 19+km Latio :-). My last tank was 19.35km/L. Lifetime FC is now 19.07km/L. Record was a 22.12km/L tank.
But my tyres are only at 285/245kPa. Like SoL, I don't think this is a problem. Tyre wear has been even so far.
The "sweet spot" for CVT equipped the Latio is to go as slow as you dare and to keep an eye on the RPM/Speedometer and keep your gear ratio at the tallest possible (about 200rpm for every 10km/h).
With a constant 70km/h, no A/C, I think 24+km/L is possible.
hi liewks, look like u r another lation with very high tyre pressure and damn gd FC :thumbsup:. For me, must try to top up to 270 and 250 liao to see if the FC really can gain much. Thanks for the sharing and a big challenge for me to go to next level :devil2:
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70kmh on Singapore hw still ok but I prefer to pay a bit more driving constant 100kmh on NSHW which give ~16km/l.
anyone with ECU map want to break the record FC :thumbsup:
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To start recording FC for the first time:
1. Head to your favourite petrol station and top off the tank. I just let the pump attendant do it.
2. Reset your trip meter AND/OR record your odometer reading.
3. Drive, drive, drive down to say, 1/4 tank.
4. Return to your favourite petrol station, and top off the tank the same way. Note down the amount of petrol you paid for (A).
5. Note the mileage either by reading the trip meter or subtracting the previously recorded odometer reading from the current odometer reading (B).
6. Then do the math: (B)/(A) to get km/L. To repeat, start from (2) again.
7. To get lifetime average, keep a spreadsheet with all your (A) and (B) data. So lifetime FC would be (Total B)/(Total A) which is not the same as avg((B)/(A)).
* Accuracy is limited by:
- variation in pump cut-off point
- variation in ambient temperature
- variation in pump flow meter
- driveway gradients
- etc, etc...
It's addictive trying to best your previous top score for FC everytime you top off. Helps to break the monotony of a long work commute. FC hasn't been great lately because of route changes and multiple forays into the CBD area.
Bro,
Care to share how you calculate your FC. :smile:
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Sharks! i missed my target to get 400km at half tank :crycry:
reach half way line already 375km :mad: but its still an improvement over my last half tank :thumbsup: I must try harder! :out:
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Woah nice!
What you did to get this?
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1) % highway/city driving? 70/30
2) Brand and RON petrol used? mobil 5000
3) Tyre Pressure? Front 270, Back 250
4) Driving with air con turned on or off? Air con on 100% set temp at 23-24
5) Drive mostly during the day or at night? 50/50
6) Brand of engine oil used? amsoil 5-30w
7) Mileage? going 10k
8) How many people are usually in the car or just yourself? 3-4ppl
9) Any modifications done to your car? ez-stab and spark bridge
10) Do you use any after market additives? never before.
i think we all have to drive smart lor....example like dun fight with gravity when going up slope and floor ur pedal....down slope time press more and to pick up speed faster....look further in front to anticipate the traffic lights changes the lesser u use ur brakes the better ur fc....and also leave home 15 mins earlier everyday so we dun have to rush and ram our engine unnecessary and can enjoy a safe and pleasant drive :thumbsup:
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Do you find your ride bumpy with 270/250 KPa for your front and back tyres?
I think the outstanding fuel economy you got is partly due to your highly inflated tyres too. :thumbsup:
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No leh dun really feel bumpy...maybe my backside numb ler :devil2: why dun u try it and feedback to us? :thumbsup:
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Sharks! i missed my target to get 400km at half tank :crycry:
reach half way line already 375km :mad: but its still an improvement over my last half tank :thumbsup: I must try harder! :out:
Wah steady! :thumbsup:
Next year can go and join the Shell Fuel challenge .. hee..
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No leh dun really feel bumpy...maybe my backside numb ler :devil2: why dun u try it and feedback to us? :thumbsup:
I would not want to risk my life for lesser grip just for a little savings in petrol. ;)
Have to bear in mind that the air inside the tyres willl heat up and expand after extended travel, resulting in higher tyre pressure.
The highest I've gone in my previous ride was 250KPa for front tyres and 240KPa for rear tyres and I already found it bumpy.
I am currently on 230KPa for front and 220KPa for rear (pump when tyres are cold). Best mileage achieved = 12.1km/l
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Hi all
My FC back to 15.75KM/L with a light footed with 2k rpm & 80 to 110km/h ^$^
Regards.
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higher tyre pressure wont die one. Why? one fine day but I was sick, I went to pump air. I notice it takes longer time to pump the tyre so I check the meter again, 350KPa -- ok tested tyre and the air valve can take such high pressure, dun need to test again.
So I released the air then pump again, this time double check the number start with 2, 250 front, 230 rear. Went to melaka and back yesterday.
IMO, Tyre pressure alone dun kill, it is more to the driver. Even with 230/210 then run fast fast on wet road sure asking for trouble. Saw 3 seperate accident last night near kulai area. One of it is a chain accident with a white sport latio leading the pack. back side :nonod: :nonod: :nonod:
ok, just to share my FC various over the last weekend:
9.0 km/l, 100% short city start stop.
14.8 km/l, SIN to Melaka with total 1 hour wait at custom. (TCM EO @ 9K km)
16.6 km/l, Melaka to last petrol station on 2nd link. (with carlube 5W40 change at begining)
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higher tyre pressure wont die one. Why? one fine day but I was sick, I went to pump air. I notice it takes longer time to pump the tyre so I check the meter again, 350KPa -- ok tested tyre and the air valve can take such high pressure, dun need to test again.
So I released the air then pump again, this time double check the number start with 2, 250 front, 230 rear. Went to melaka and back yesterday.
IMO, Tyre pressure alone dun kill, it is more to the driver. Even with 230/210 then run fast fast on wet road sure asking for trouble. Saw 3 seperate accident last night near kulai area. One of it is a chain accident with a white sport latio leading the pack. back side :nonod: :nonod: :nonod:
ok, just to share my FC various over the last weekend:
9.0 km/l, 100% short city start stop.
14.8 km/l, SIN to Melaka with total 1 hour wait at custom. (TCM EO @ 9K km)
16.6 km/l, Melaka to last petrol station on 2nd link. (with carlube 5W40 change at begining)
Hi ying ge,
carlube 5W40 ? what EO is this?
i had Rev1 chg @ autosaver. aso 5W40 they chg for me, i donno what is that (the W) for aso. i let them handle coz i donno anything abt it.
smooth drive from MLK to 2ndlink shld save fuel aso.
friday night, i pumped to full tank at JB then go to Muar. the fuel can tahan until sunday night, i reached 490km and still have more than 1 qtr (as shown at the gauge meter). my FC hit 15.75km/L. power...
regards.
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noor... the cheap cheap $28.99 for 5L EO sell by NTUC. It is made in UK and the series is Triple-R, better EO by carlube.
This one: Carlube 5W40 (http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=73)
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noor... the cheap cheap $28.99 for 5L EO sell by NTUC. It is made in UK and the series is Triple-R, better EO by carlube.
hi ying
what EO is that?
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hi guys
just want to share my FC experience too
i have done 10km/l to 15km/l before (70 % highway 30 % normal )
i conclude the way you pick up the car is very crucial ,
you have to gradually step on the accelerator pedal to pick up and not slam it down from the start
any sudden rpm will also affect your FC too,
that's the way CVT is (premium model sedan), it is fuel economy depending on your right foot
of coz the rest like no of passengers, aircon temp, engine oil and traffic plays a part too
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higher tyre pressure wont die one. Why? one fine day but I was sick, I went to pump air. I notice it takes longer time to pump the tyre so I check the meter again, 350KPa -- ok tested tyre and the air valve can take such high pressure, dun need to test again.
So I released the air then pump again, this time double check the number start with 2, 250 front, 230 rear. Went to melaka and back yesterday.
IMO, Tyre pressure alone dun kill, it is more to the driver. Even with 230/210 then run fast fast on wet road sure asking for trouble. Saw 3 seperate accident last night near kulai area. One of it is a chain accident with a white sport latio leading the pack. back side :nonod: :nonod: :nonod:
ok, just to share my FC various over the last weekend:
9.0 km/l, 100% short city start stop.
14.8 km/l, SIN to Melaka with total 1 hour wait at custom. (TCM EO @ 9K km)
16.6 km/l, Melaka to last petrol station on 2nd link. (with carlube 5W40 change at begining)
Bro,
Take care of your health, sick also go pump tyre. :blink:
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aii... sometime life really bo pian unless I kena toto $3m this week.
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Looks very impressive. Did you get a 22+km/L tank on this?
Sharks! i missed my target to get 400km at half tank :crycry:
reach half way line already 375km :mad: but its still an improvement over my last half tank :thumbsup: I must try harder! :out:
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Looks very impressive. Did you get a 22+km/L tank on this?
Cannot be 22km/l lar :blink: havent finish my tank yet but i estimate it to be 17+km/l :bleh: 22km/l would be in hydbrid range ler unless no on aircon :out: and become roasted pig :thumbsup:
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aii... sometime life really bo pian unless I kena toto $3m this week.
hi bro ying, WISH YOU ALL THE BEST LUCK + HENG HENG HENG + HUAT HUAT HUAT to strike $3M but don't forget me ok? of course other fellow lations too :pray: :yehyeh:
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I would not want to risk my life for lesser grip just for a little savings in petrol. ;)
Have to bear in mind that the air inside the tyres willl heat up and expand after extended travel, resulting in higher tyre pressure.
The highest I've gone in my previous ride was 250KPa for front tyres and 240KPa for rear tyres and I already found it bumpy.
I am currently on 230KPa for front and 220KPa for rear (pump when tyres are cold). Best mileage achieved = 12.1km/l
hi bro clarence, it's perfectly OK to pump at higher pressure but DON'T SPEED...that's why many lations getting better FC now. for me, my exp by inscreased pressure to 250 and 240 has improved my FC from ave 12+km/l to 13+km/l now (last tank hit 13.4km/l). Trying 260/250 now with my current tank and will updates all later.
*u will not exp increased of pressure over time but rather drop over time, eg. for my exp, seeing drop by 8~10kpa by 1wk
**also don't try higher pressure for long distance travel eg to malaysia
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Cannot be 22km/l lar :blink: havent finish my tank yet but i estimate it to be 17+km/l :bleh: 22km/l would be in hydbrid range ler unless no on aircon :out: and become roasted pig :thumbsup:
hi bro fri13th, what's yr usual speed at highway? And did you put to neutral while waiting at traffic light? Thanks to share.
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400km at half tank mark and you get only 17km/l? Weird, I get 19km/l but around 300km at half tank mark. You took the picture on upslope is it? :confused1:
On a side note, cars generally consume lesser petrol in N then in D when at a stop, but I can't confirm that for latios. I do that though.
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On a side note, cars generally consume lesser petrol in N then in D when at a stop, but I can't confirm that for latios. I do that though.
I agree. Verified on a SGP Jazz and a NAM Nissan Altima 2.4L with a Scangauge. I suppose the Latio will behave similarly. Too bad our Latio does not support Scangauge :-(.
There's an interesting footnote to this, the Altima consumed less petrol when stopped in D than in N when it was still in warm-up mode. Maybe this has something to do with keeping the revs down when the engine is in open loop. But once the engine is nice and warm, the reverse is true.
I like to keep the gear shift at N when stopped. It saves a tiny bit of fuel, avoids heating up the torque converter and makes my little car feel like it has a V6 at idle... (i.e. hardly any vibration). Actually, I often switch off the engine at those stop lights that stay red for over 20s.
Another thing about higher tyre pressures. There seems to be an point of view going round that it is dangerous to use higher pressures on long highway drives because the tyre will overheat. However, the tyre with higher pressure has two things in its favour:
- it will suffer less deformation as it rotates at speed, and,
- it will possess lower rolling resistance
and therefore should heat up less than an underinflated tyre. Underinflation is far more dangerous at sustained highway speeds than mild overinflation (within sidewall limits). Higher pressures tend to lower the effort required to turn the tyres and results in somewhat lighter steering, which we may mistake for severely reduced grip.
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400km at half tank mark and you get only 17km/l? Weird, I get 19km/l but around 300km at half tank mark. You took the picture on upslope is it? :confused1:
My observations are similar to SoL. About 320km~340km at 1/2 tank indicates a high chance of a 19+km/L tank (~570km @ 1/4 tank mark). Getting 400km @ 1/2 tank will mean an excellent chance of a 22+km/L tank (~660km @ 1/4 tank) if traffic conditions stay the same throughout the tank. Unfortunately, I haven't seen 20+km/L tanks for some time now.
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No leh i never park at slope leh i come to 17km/l cos the last half tank was 368km and untill light came on is 636km and i pump in 37.5 litres so about 17km/l lor unless my formula for fc calculation is wrong or maybe my tank different shape with u guys? :blink:
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I agree. Verified on a SGP Jazz and a NAM Nissan Altima 2.4L with a Scangauge. I suppose the Latio will behave similarly. Too bad our Latio does not support Scangauge :-(.
There's an interesting footnote to this, the Altima consumed less petrol when stopped in D than in N when it was still in warm-up mode. Maybe this has something to do with keeping the revs down when the engine is in open loop. But once the engine is nice and warm, the reverse is true.
I like to keep the gear shift at N when stopped. It saves a tiny bit of fuel, avoids heating up the torque converter and makes my little car feel like it has a V6 at idle... (i.e. hardly any vibration). Actually, I often switch off the engine at those stop lights that stay red for over 20s.
Another thing about higher tyre pressures. There seems to be an point of view going round that it is dangerous to use higher pressures on long highway drives because the tyre will overheat. However, the tyre with higher pressure has two things in its favour:
- it will suffer less deformation as it rotates at speed, and,
- it will possess lower rolling resistance
and therefore should heat up less than an underinflated tyre. Underinflation is far more dangerous at sustained highway speeds than mild overinflation (within sidewall limits). Higher pressures tend to lower the effort required to turn the tyres and results in somewhat lighter steering, which we may mistake for severely reduced grip.
Scanguage II can?
http://www.scangauge.com/
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hi bro fri13th, liewks, Sol, seem like all of u top up petrol to full after light up. Think of trying up to top up to only 1/2 tank and to monitor for few top ups and calculate total amt of petrol topped up & distance travelled. I believed it's will be a great help in FC but it's mean that I can't go to JB every wkends to pump cheaper petrol liao...
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Wow liewks, can't believe there's a pro hypermiler in TLC, getting 20km/l tanks!
I have much to learn! ;D
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How u guys can achieve such amazing fc man? Won't the car be very slow if it's lower rpm all the way?
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How u guys can achieve such amazing fc man? Won't the car be very slow if it's lower rpm all the way?
hi totallypatrick
saw ur white latio. what happen to the front part? the side like kena kissed before?
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How u guys can achieve such amazing fc man? Won't the car be very slow if it's lower rpm all the way?
Not really. Its a misconception that stepping very lightly on accelerator is good for FC. In fact, moderate is the best. Engine works best at wide open throttle.
So maintaining around 2k for acceleration is best. After that cruise at around 80-85 should be ok. Anymore higher and the higher constant rpm and large wind resistance is terrible for FC.
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My observations are similar to SoL. About 320km~240km at 1/2 tank indicates a high chance of a 19+km/L tank (~570km @ 1/4 tank mark). Getting 400km @ 1/2 tank will mean an excellent chance of a 22+km/L tank (~660km @ 1/4 tank) if traffic conditions stay the same throughout the tank. Unfortunately, I haven't seen 20+km/L tanks for some time now.
I have never achieved anything above 230km for half way mark and my best FC till date is 11.5km/ltr...but now a days seems to be worse dropping to 10.5km/ltr or less...car only 6500km traveled...told the SA my problem but of course hear the usual crap of driving pattern blah blah blah.... :mad: :mad: :mad:
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what are your "cold" tyre pressures?
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what are your "cold" tyre pressures?
hi silver,
how frequent do we need to chk our typr air ah?
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once in about two two weeks will do nicely
weekly if you are very "on"
try to make visual check of all 4 tyres everyday before starting journey - helps to spot punctures before having to make "expensive" replacements
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once in about two two weeks will do nicely
weekly if you are very "on"
try to make visual check of all 4 tyres everyday before starting journey - helps to spot punctures before having to make "expensive" replacements
hi silver
ohhh
ever since my last chg of all 4 tyres, i chk during my 30000 service at autosaver, til now abt 1mth liao, hvnt chk
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Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to work... It works great in the Jazz and you can read throttle position, battery voltage, engine load, FC, etc... Sigh, too bad for us. I have tried scrolling through many different settings to no avail. Perhaps a guru provide some advice?
Scanguage II can?
http://www.scangauge.com/
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Wow liewks, can't believe there's a pro hypermiler in TLC, getting 20km/l tanks!
I have much to learn! ;D
Err, I don't think I'm "pro". There are several factors that weigh things in my favour:
- long continuous drive of 37km each way minimises warm up hit on FC
- having 65% ~ 75% highway commute
- the fact that I don't mind going a little slower
There are the lousy FC tanks too:
- 2 13.75km/L tanks
- 1 14.66km/L tank
- 1 14.74km/L tank
The guys from CleanMPG would probably be pulling over 25km/L if they had my car and route... I have no idea how that do that... Out of this world.
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Not really. Its a misconception that stepping very lightly on accelerator is good for FC. In fact, moderate is the best. Engine works best at wide open throttle.
So maintaining around 2k for acceleration is best. After that cruise at around 80-85 should be ok. Anymore higher and the higher constant rpm and large wind resistance is terrible for FC.
While it is true that having a wide open throttle minimises throttle loss, there are other factors to consider. Throttle and RPM's are not necessarily directly related. Engine load can influence throttle position.
I am guilty of accelerating slowly. My aim to to spend as much time in the maximum gear ratio which loads the engine as much as possible at a given RPM. After a short blip to 1500rpm, I ease up on the throttle to get it down to 1200rpm. Wait for speed to hit 60km/hr and then there is a sort of ratio lock-up and I can accelerate the car from that point onwards in "top" gear.
If only we had a 5-MT Latio! More tricks to play with.
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Yeah, a manual Latio for FAS! ::)
Joking, fas in singapore can die. The traffic here is terrible, especially in rush hour. My heart pains everytime I go into CBD, thinking of all the fuel wasted/
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Hi everyone! today fuel tank lights went up and pump in 37litres of petrol milaege 664km :out:
Thats about 18km/l :yehyeh: really still getting better with each tank! :w00t: wondering when my good Fc will reach its limit :bleh: I think only time will tell ::)
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Looking good :thumbsup:! Looks like you should be able to hit 20km/L if you keep at it :smile:.
BTW, you might be interested in following a record breaking attempt being undertaken by a team of hypermilers in the US. They are trying to topple a record set several months ago by the Taylors. This involves crossing the 48 states with the best fuel economy. The hypermilers are attempting the record breaking feat in a Civic Hybrid. I think they are currently at 64+ US MPG. This is with 3 people in the car, a boot full of luggage, climbing mountain passes and potentially negotiating snow and ice!
Hi everyone! today fuel tank lights went up and pump in 37litres of petrol milaege 664km :out:
Thats about 18km/l :yehyeh: really still getting better with each tank! :w00t: wondering when my good Fc will reach its limit :bleh: I think only time will tell ::)
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Its ironic that they're burning so much fuel just to set a world record for best hypermilers!
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Its ironic that they're burning so much fuel just to set a world record for best hypermilers!
It is. Perhaps it is part of their effort to gain greater recognition amongst the community so that they can spread their methods to the sceptics.
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While it is true that having a wide open throttle minimises throttle loss, there are other factors to consider. Throttle and RPM's are not necessarily directly related. Engine load can influence throttle position.
I am guilty of accelerating slowly. My aim to to spend as much time in the maximum gear ratio which loads the engine as much as possible at a given RPM. After a short blip to 1500rpm, I ease up on the throttle to get it down to 1200rpm. Wait for speed to hit 60km/hr and then there is a sort of ratio lock-up and I can accelerate the car from that point onwards in "top" gear.
If only we had a 5-MT Latio! More tricks to play with.
is there a possibility that engaging a low rpm from start for too long will affect the FC? after all engaging too low rpm means on low gear which in effects translate to higher fuel consumption as engine "dragging"...
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is there a possibility that engaging a low rpm from start for too long will affect the FC? after all engaging too low rpm means on low gear which in effects translate to higher fuel consumption as engine "dragging"...
Yah i think its best to press harder and reach cruising speed fast and than let the gear auto shift into the highest gear when u reach cruising speed rather than dragging the engine along at low rpm is a waste of time and maybe fuel too :confused1: for me i quite often press until 5k+ rpm to reach cruising speeds in expressways and i am getting consistent good FC of 17/18km/litre :yehyeh:
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Wow! That is absolutely amazing and impressive! :thumbsup:
You can rev to excess of 5,000rpm (almost redline) and still achieve a consistent good Fuel Consumptiom of 17/18km/litre! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Are there any special techniques to achieve your record breaking fuel economy?
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Yah i think its best to press harder and reach cruising speed fast and than let the gear auto shift into the highest gear when u reach cruising speed rather than dragging the engine along at low rpm is a waste of time and maybe fuel too :confused1: for me i quite often press until 5k+ rpm to reach cruising speeds in expressways and i am getting consistent good FC of 17/18km/litre :yehyeh:
fri13th,
You may have missed this.
We look forward to your reply on how you managed to achieve this remarkable record breaking 17 to 18km/l feat on your Latio despite almost red lining to over 5000rpm (redline is 6500rpm).
Please share your secret with us.
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fri13th,
You may have missed this.
We look forward to your reply on how you managed to achieve this remarkable record breaking 17 to 18km/l feat on your Latio despite almost red lining to over 5000rpm (redline is 6500rpm).
Please share your secret with us.
Dear Clarence,
i did not miss ur question....its that i am lazy :bleh: to post my driving pattern again which i posted b4 previously in this thread but nvm lar i will do it once more for u :thumbsup:
1) % highway/city driving? 70/30
2) Brand and RON petrol used? mobil 5000
3) Tyre Pressure? Front 270, Back 250
4) Driving with air con turned on or off? Air con on 100% set temp at 23-24
5) Drive mostly during the day or at night? 50/50
6) Brand of engine oil used? amsoil 5-30w
7) Mileage? going 10k
8) How many people are usually in the car or just yourself? 3-4ppl
9) Any modifications done to your car? ez-stab and spark bridge
10) Do you use any after market additives? never before.
i think we all have to drive smart lor....example like dun fight with gravity when going up slope and floor ur pedal....down slope time press more to pick up speed faster....look further in front to anticipate the traffic lights changes the lesser u use ur brakes the better ur fc....and also leave home 15 mins earlier everyday so we dun have to rush and ram our engine unnecessary and can enjoy a safe and pleasant drive :thumbsup:
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Very impressive.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Your Latio is really one in a million. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Even when I just drive alone, mostly highway driving, never rev above 2500rpm, travel at 80km/h, air con thermostat set at 26 degrees, best I got was 14km/l.
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Fantastic! :thumbsup:
Well your driving pattern almost similar to mine however as mine is still a heavy small korean car till i get my new ride :smile: and I managed to achieve 12km/L
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Fantastic! :thumbsup:
Well your driving pattern almost similar to mine however as mine is still a heavy small korean car till i get my new ride :smile: and I managed to achieve 12km/L
congrat! saw in mycarforum that u got ur COE today.
care to tell me which korean car u r driving currently? me on getz (wating for successful COE for my new ride) and only get btw 10-11km/L
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Sorie tink u read wrongly, I didnt manage to get my COE cos booked at too low a price. Doubt very much TCM will give it to me. Even if willing to give me also not so soon. :yehyeh:
I am also currently driving a Getz. :smile:
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Sorie tink u read wrongly, I didnt manage to get my COE cos booked at too low a price. Doubt very much TCM will give it to me. Even if willing to give me also not so soon. :yehyeh:
I am also currently driving a Getz. :smile:
sorry for my mistake.. hope both of us can get our COE soon.
not bad for u to achieve 12km/l for getz. me trying so hard and can only acheive on 12km/l when i drive 90% on highway. but due to the increase of ERP prices & gantries...now 70% on city driving.
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Yup lets :pray: together.
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Yup lets :pray: together.
bro..care tell me how old is ur getz?
so did u trade it to TCM n how much did they offer u above scrape value?
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Very impressive.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Your Latio is really one in a million. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Even when I just drive alone, mostly highway driving, never rev above 2500rpm, travel at 80km/h, air con thermostat set at 26 degrees, best I got was 14km/l.
let me join ur club.. FC of 12 niah ... even with same driving habits...
nwo reaching 8K mileage and still on mineral oil
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bro..care tell me how old is ur getz?
so did u trade it to TCM n how much did they offer u above scrape value?
Mine a 4yr coming to 5yr and TCM say 0.... :glare: And dont noe why gong gong still take. haiz
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let me join ur club.. FC of 12 niah ... even with same driving habits...
nwo reaching 8K mileage and still on mineral oil
hi bro, yr car still very new and sb able to hv better FC rite? Or u must be cheongter then? Mine > 3yrs now with best achievement of 13.5+KM/l in local and ~17+km/l 100% on malaysia NSHW. Do follow some tips given by some fellow lations for better FC. :smile:
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When you floor the pedal to hit 5K+ rpm, the engine has to go into open-loop mode momentarily. That is not really a fuel saving technique. While throttle losses are reduced, excess fuel is used to cool the engine to avoid detonation (engine burns rich when > 3/4 throttle). Also high rpms increase losses due to friction.
It is generally agreed that shifting up at low rpm in MT equipped cars is the most efficient way to accelerate. This does not mean that you need to use light throttle. Opening the throttle while keeping engine RPM low minimises throttle loss. I am not sure if 5k+ rpm on an AT has the same effect. You might be able to get 18~19km/L.
Anyway, the ECU & TCM will ensure that the engine is never "dragged".
Yah i think its best to press harder and reach cruising speed fast and than let the gear auto shift into the highest gear when u reach cruising speed rather than dragging the engine along at low rpm is a waste of time and maybe fuel too :confused1: for me i quite often press until 5k+ rpm to reach cruising speeds in expressways and i am getting consistent good FC of 17/18km/litre :yehyeh:
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When you floor the pedal to hit 5K+ rpm, the engine has to go into open-loop mode momentarily. That is not really a fuel saving technique. While throttle losses are reduced, excess fuel is used to cool the engine to avoid detonation (engine burns rich when > 3/4 throttle). Also high rpms increase losses due to friction.
It is generally agreed that shifting up at low rpm in MT equipped cars is the most efficient way to accelerate. This does not mean that you need to use light throttle. Opening the throttle while keeping engine RPM low minimises throttle loss. I am not sure if 5k+ rpm on an AT has the same effect. You might be able to get 18~19km/L.
Anyway, the ECU & TCM will ensure that the engine is never "dragged".
No matter how hard I try, I can never achieve 18 to 19km/l when I drag my engine beyond 5,000rpm. Is there a special technique to achieve this?
I get 10+km/l at best if I drag the engine beyond 5,000rpm.
When I drag past 5,000rpm, by 2nd gear, I am almost at 100km/h.
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No matter how hard I try, I can never achieve 18 to 19km/l when I drag my engine beyond 5,000rpm. Is there a special technique to achieve this?
I get 10+km/l at best if I drag the engine beyond 5,000rpm.
When I drag past 5,000rpm, by 2nd gear, I am almost at 100km/h.
Sorry, what I meant to say was that if one could get 17~18km/L by flooring it and getting to 5k rpm, then he should be able to get even better mileage by avoiding that... There must be some magic in the technique because I don't think I can get anywhere near 17~18km/h if I accelerate like that. Perhaps there could be a group meet to teach the technique? It would be easy to monitor the effectiveness in an FL Latio with the instantaneous+average FC meter. Now if TCM could retro-fit that FC meter into the pre-FL Latio...
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Sorry, what I meant to say was that if one could get 17~18km/L by flooring it and getting to 5k rpm, then he should be able to get even better mileage by avoiding that... There must be some magic in the technique because I don't think I can get anywhere near 17~18km/h if I accelerate like that. Perhaps there could be a group meet to teach the technique? It would be easy to monitor the effectiveness in an FL Latio with the instantaneous+average FC meter. Now if TCM could retro-fit that FC meter into the pre-FL Latio...
Hee.. if can retro fit me also want.
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Hee.. if can retro fit me also want.
ME toooooo.. i dont mind the meter leh
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Sorry, what I meant to say was that if one could get 17~18km/L by flooring it and getting to 5k rpm, then he should be able to get even better mileage by avoiding that... There must be some magic in the technique because I don't think I can get anywhere near 17~18km/h if I accelerate like that. Perhaps there could be a group meet to teach the technique? It would be easy to monitor the effectiveness in an FL Latio with the instantaneous+average FC meter. Now if TCM could retro-fit that FC meter into the pre-FL Latio...
Hi guys! let me clear something on my acceleration at 5k rpm......i normally only do that when i am filtering into the expressway to reach my cruising speed of about 90km/hr and time taken is only a few seconds in 5krpm after that speed is reach i will relax and let the car cruise at the highest gear at 1.8krpm speed at 90km/hr.....on main roads i seldom press hard on the pedal and just relax let my car roll to cruising sped around 60-70km/hr at around 1.2krpm-1.4rpm and try to time the traffic lights for the reason being that i find no point to chiong fast on our main roads as i find that we will very fast kanna stop at traffic lights which i feel is a waste of fuel? Correct me if i am wrong :thumbsup:
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Hi guys! let me clear something on my acceleration at 5k rpm......i normally only do that when i am filtering into the expressway to reach my cruising speed of about 90km/hr and time taken is only a few seconds in 5krpm after that speed is reach i will relax and let the car cruise at the highest gear at 1.8krpm speed at 90km/hr.....on main roads i seldom press hard on the pedal and just relax let my car roll to cruising sped around 60-70km/hr at around 1.2krpm-1.4rpm and try to time the traffic lights for the reason being that i find no point to chiong fast on our main roads as i find that we will very fast kanna stop at traffic lights which i feel is a waste of fuel? Correct me if i am wrong :thumbsup:
Bravo u had applied the fuel saving techniques correctly. By having high rpm for merging into expressway speed limit does help with FC. But if on normal roads it will kill the FC. Going slowly to achieve highway speed will result in poor FC. :yehyeh:
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So am I correct to say that it is more economical to rev hard to 5000rpm to achieve cruising speed on the highway, than to accelerate gently on the highest gear to achieve criusing speed? :confused1:
fri13th, do you hit 5,000rpm on 2nd or 3rd gear? (if you are driving Latio 4A/T)
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So am I correct to say that it is more economical to rev hard to 5000rpm to achieve cruising speed on the highway, than to accelerate gently on the highest gear to achieve criusing speed? :confused1:
fri13th, do you hit 5,000rpm on 2nd or 3rd gear? (if you are driving Latio 4A/T)
I think its more economical this way but not really necessary to press untill 5krpm lar........our latio peak torque is achieve at around 4400rpm that is the point where our engine pull strongest so 4k+rpm should be more than enough ler :thumbsup: For me mine is cvt so i dun really know which gear i am at :yehyeh:
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I think its more economical this way but not really necessary to press untill 5krpm lar........our latio peak torque is achieve at around 4400rpm that is the point where our engine pull strongest so 4k+rpm should be more than enough ler :thumbsup: For me mine is cvt so i dun really know which gear i am at :yehyeh:
Hi bro fri13th, thanks for the great input :thumbsup:.Hv tried recently to increase the tyre pressure & .......
......
.....
Here u r... i'm on 270/250 too liao but yet to achieve the great FC close to what u guys achieved. Yr input here will be great help & think like stop going JB and to monitor the FC. So far still maintain 12+ ~13km+/l depending how "chia lak" the jam at chkpt. Thanks :thumbsup:
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Hi bro fri13th, thanks for the great input :thumbsup:.Hv tried recently to increase the tyre pressure & .......
......
.....
Here u r... i'm on 270/250 too liao but yet to achieve the great FC close to what u guys achieved. Yr input here will be great help & think like stop going JB and to monitor the FC. So far still maintain 12+ ~13km+/l depending how "chia lak" the jam at chkpt. Thanks :thumbsup:
Hehe :devil2: tell u a secret hor........my last few tanks of FC calculation was also around 17/18km/litre made on trips to jb with chia lak jams also but dunno why the FC still remain good? Maybe is becos i park at the slope of the caltex station to pump petrol thus able to pump a few litres more? :thumbsup:
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Hey guys! i got 1 tip for saving abit of petrol when kanna jam at causeway at night :thumbsup: dun on ur headlight just on the small light can ler i believe it can save some petrol and bulb life too :thumbsup:
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I thought the headlights get their power supply from the car battery and has nothing to do with petrol consumption? :confused1:
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I thought the headlights get their power supply from the car battery and has nothing to do with petrol consumption? :confused1:
When engine is running all electical supply comes from the alternator and not the battery. Battery is only for initial start up.
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I think its more economical this way but not really necessary to press untill 5krpm lar........our latio peak torque is achieve at around 4400rpm that is the point where our engine pull strongest so 4k+rpm should be more than enough ler :thumbsup: For me mine is cvt so i dun really know which gear i am at :yehyeh:
Correct, need to understand what is the max torque and that will determine how fast the car and move off. And its pretty pointless to rev higher than max torque as its a waste of petrol. And maintaining rev at max torque will ensure very quick pickup.
However at higher speed, the bhp of the engine will determine how fast u can go; i.e. max speed. That's why small cars tend to lose the bigger cars when trying to accelerate from beyond 100km/h.
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I think its more economical this way but not really necessary to press untill 5krpm lar........our latio peak torque is achieve at around 4400rpm that is the point where our engine pull strongest so 4k+rpm should be more than enough ler :thumbsup: For me mine is cvt so i dun really know which gear i am at :yehyeh:
to summary fri13th's secret>>
1)Expressway>> rev hard till 3.5Krpm to 4krpm so as to achieve 90km/h in shortest time then relax to 1.8Krpm/2.2krpm to maintain at 90km/h.
2)Main Road>> Dont step the pedal too hard, maintain at 2k rpm.
Am i correct to say these??
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to summary fri13th's secret>>
1)Expressway>> rev hard till 3.5Krpm to 4krpm so as to achieve 90km/h in shortest time then relax to 1.8Krpm/2.2krpm to maintain at 90km/h.
2)Main Road>> Dont step the pedal too hard, maintain at 2k rpm.
Am i correct to say these??
Yes bro but these 2 points are only part of my secret of good FC......pressing hard to reach cruising speed at expressway have to depend on road condition like if its up hill slope i would advise to stay at 2krpm and if its flat or even better if down slope i will press harder to take advantage of gravity to pick up my speed :thumbsup:
For cruising on highway i do not stay at 90km/hr constanly as i adapt my speed according to gravity.....example if i know that i am approaching a uphil slope i will step on the throttle slightly harder to reach maybe 100km/hr to build up my car kinetic energy to go up the hill but i will still stay at highest gear and not press that much to let gear shift to lower range as that would mean that our engine is wasting fuel to fight with gravity and when i reach the top of the slope i will than let the car glide down it to reach speeds up to 110km/hr and very slowly gently ease the throttle to let it reach back to 80-90km/hr :thumbsup:
For normal road actually quite simple to get good FC if we all follow the logic of 'The less u brake the better ur Fc' & 'The moment u release the throttle no fuel is consume untill ur speed fall untill about 30km/hr' soo we try if we can to look further to anticipate traffic and lights and let the engine do the braking and not the brakes to save on the fuel and brake pads :yehyeh:
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Hehe :devil2: tell u a secret hor........my last few tanks of FC calculation was also around 17/18km/litre made on trips to jb with chia lak jams also but dunno why the FC still remain good? Maybe is becos i park at the slope of the caltex station to pump petrol thus able to pump a few litres more? :thumbsup:
hi bro, u should minus 2~3 l to calculate the correct FC mah..rite? :devil2:
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Yes bro but these 2 points are only part of my secret of good FC......pressing hard to reach cruising speed at expressway have to depend on road condition like if its up hill slope i would advise to stay at 2krpm and if its flat or even better if down slope i will press harder to take advantage of gravity to pick up my speed :thumbsup:
For cruising on highway i do not stay at 90km/hr constanly as i adapt my speed according to gravity.....example if i know that i am approaching a uphil slope i will step on the throttle slightly harder to reach maybe 100km/hr to build up my car kinetic energy to go up the hill but i will still stay at highest gear and not press that much to let gear shift to lower range as that would mean that our engine is wasting fuel to fight with gravity and when i reach the top of the slope i will than let the car glide down it to reach speeds up to 110km/hr and very slowly gently ease the throttle to let it reach back to 80-90km/hr :thumbsup:
For normal road actually quite simple to get good FC if we all follow the logic of 'The less u brake the better ur Fc' & 'The moment u release the throttle no fuel is consume untill ur speed fall untill about 30km/hr' soo we try if we can to look further to anticipate traffic and lights and let the engine do the braking and not the brakes to save on the fuel and brake pads :yehyeh:
Hi bro. thks for the sharing as i tot going down the slope shd let it slide down by turn on neutral gear, and look like it's another way round. Will try it up. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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For normal road actually quite simple to get good FC if we all follow the logic of 'The less u brake the better ur Fc' & 'The moment u release the throttle no fuel is consume untill ur speed fall untill about 30km/hr' soo we try if we can to look further to anticipate traffic and lights and let the engine do the braking and not the brakes to save on the fuel and brake pads :yehyeh:
The moment I release the trottle, no fuel is consumed?
I though as long as the engine is running, fuel will be consumed.
Can you enlighten me?
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The moment I release the trottle, no fuel is consumed?
I though as long as the engine is running, fuel will be consumed.
Can you enlighten me?
To my understanding, as long as u depress ur accelerator, the fuel will be injected. BUT if u dont press it, no fuel will be injected loh..
thats y, when i go downslope, i dont depress the accelerator... let gravity do the work for me + i save fuel aka $$$
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I think its more economical this way but not really necessary to press untill 5krpm lar........our latio peak torque is achieve at around 4400rpm that is the point where our engine pull strongest so 4k+rpm should be more than enough ler :thumbsup: For me mine is cvt so i dun really know which gear i am at :yehyeh:
been trying your method hehe, rev to 3+K rpm to hit 90km/h
but i find that the ride is not very comfortable, quite jerky>>i think it is due to the acceleration when i step and the deceleration when i release the pedal
Anyone who tried Fri13th's method, do you have this feeling ?
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To my understanding, as long as u depress ur accelerator, the fuel will be injected. BUT if u dont press it, no fuel will be injected loh..
thats y, when i go downslope, i dont depress the accelerator... let gravity do the work for me + i save fuel aka $$$
Ha ha ha ...... wrong !! Don't tell me when your engine on idle, no fuel is being injected ? So your engine block is vacuum if you do not step on your accelerator and let it free run, put your gear to D mode and just let it roll. :bleh:
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When idle, yes, fuel is consumed.
However, when in gear, like D, something called deceleration fuel-cutoff (DFCO) takes place. From what I observed on my 4AT, at speeds above 45, when you lift your leg off accelerator, the fuel injection cuts-off. Instead, the engine is kept running by momentum from the wheels.
Fuel injection continues when your speed is below 45 in D, when the engine rpm isn't enough to keep the engine running. So normally when stopping, i'd go from D to OD-OFF to 2, then stop. Helps save some fuel.
This is not a very good way to go downslope unless you're planning to stop or you're going too fast, as engine braking is still not as good as coasting in Neutral.
This feature has been in cars since 92, if i'm not wrong.
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Fuel is being consumed even if you dont step on the acceletor. As long as engine running fuel is consumed but at what rate will depend on rpm.
Didnt one of the fuel saving techniques discourages idling? :bleh:
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Yes bro but these 2 points are only part of my secret of good FC......pressing hard to reach cruising speed at expressway have to depend on road condition like if its up hill slope i would advise to stay at 2krpm and if its flat or even better if down slope i will press harder to take advantage of gravity to pick up my speed :thumbsup:
For cruising on highway i do not stay at 90km/hr constanly as i adapt my speed according to gravity.....example if i know that i am approaching a uphil slope i will step on the throttle slightly harder to reach maybe 100km/hr to build up my car kinetic energy to go up the hill but i will still stay at highest gear and not press that much to let gear shift to lower range as that would mean that our engine is wasting fuel to fight with gravity and when i reach the top of the slope i will than let the car glide down it to reach speeds up to 110km/hr and very slowly gently ease the throttle to let it reach back to 80-90km/hr :thumbsup:
For normal road actually quite simple to get good FC if we all follow the logic of 'The less u brake the better ur Fc' & 'The moment u release the throttle no fuel is consume untill ur speed fall untill about 30km/hr' soo we try if we can to look further to anticipate traffic and lights and let the engine do the braking and not the brakes to save on the fuel and brake pads :yehyeh:
yo guys, did something similiar to the bro's method above,
A) i reach my optimum speed asap and maintain that as long as i could. i keep a distance with the car in front so i do not need to depress the brake in case the car slows down. i just need to release the accelerator.
B) as for main roads, i pickup at rpm to 2 max and maintain speed. try not to have sudden surge of speed
i reach my half way mark and clocked a total distance of 310
i was surprised too at the reading, even double check to see if the reading is correct :bleh:
btw, i'm on 16" 205/50. my previous readings before this experiment is around 13 to 14km/l best. hope can better this :)
on 60 expressway and 40 main roads :smile:
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Fuel is being consumed even if you dont step on the acceletor. As long as engine running fuel is consumed but at what rate will depend on rpm.
Didnt one of the fuel saving techniques discourages idling? :bleh:
Yes, idling is discouraged because idling occurs when you stop, which means engine rpm is not enough to keep engine running without using fuel.
At high speeds like 45 and above(for me), when u lift your leg off accelerator, fuel injection stop, thus engine braking. If you don't believe, try this:
1.Get your speed up to 70-80km/h.
2.Release accelerator. Your car speed should slow down very fast. This is engine braking, and no fuel is being consumed at this point.
3.At around 45km/h, you should feel a jerk as fuel injection resumes and your car is free wheeling(less engine braking).
This is tried and tested on 4AT. For CVT, your mileage may vary.
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When idle, yes, fuel is consumed.
However, when in gear, like D, something called deceleration fuel-cutoff (DFCO) takes place. From what I observed on my 4AT, at speeds above 45, when you lift your leg off accelerator, the fuel injection cuts-off. Instead, the engine is kept running by momentum from the wheels.
Fuel injection continues when your speed is below 45 in D, when the engine rpm isn't enough to keep the engine running. So normally when stopping, i'd go from D to OD-OFF to 2, then stop. Helps save some fuel.
This is not a very good way to go downslope unless you're planning to stop or you're going too fast, as engine braking is still not as good as coasting in Neutral.
This feature has been in cars since 92, if i'm not wrong.
Yes, while in D, once I release my right foot, I believe the controller cuts-off(or should I say greatly reduce) fuel to helps slow down the car from higher speed to ~30km/h. Then it will inject some fuel even I dont touch the pedal.
while idle, car speed is below 30km/h right? so the controller will inject fuel even you dont touch the pedal.
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Yes, idling is discouraged because idling occurs when you stop, which means engine rpm is not enough to keep engine running without using fuel.
At high speeds like 45 and above(for me), when u lift your leg off accelerator, fuel injection stop, thus engine braking. If you don't believe, try this:
1.Get your speed up to 70-80km/h.
2.Release accelerator. Your car speed should slow down very fast. This is engine braking, and no fuel is being consumed at this point.
3.At around 45km/h, you should feel a jerk as fuel injection resumes and your car is free wheeling(less engine braking).
This is tried and tested on 4AT. For CVT, your mileage may vary.
yeap, the jerk happen ~30km/h+ for my CVT.
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Yes, while in D, once I release my right foot, I believe the controller cuts-off(or should I say greatly reduce) fuel to helps slow down the car from higher speed to ~30km/h. Then it will inject some fuel even I dont touch the pedal.
while idle, car speed is below 30km/h right? so the controller will inject fuel even you dont touch the pedal.
Yes, thats right. But its not greatly reduce, its cut-off.
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Yes, thats right. But its not greatly reduce, its cut-off.
It not totally cut off, once your engine is burnt off fuel, the ECU will still tell the fuel injector to inject fuel to maintain idle speed, else if you idle too long, your engine will stalled if you do not depress your accelerator ?
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Im sorry, im a bit confused.
So you are trying to say fuel is not cutoff when idling? Yes, thats right, because idling happens when u stop, and rpm is not high enough, thus fuel is injected.
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yo guys, did something similiar to the bro's method above,
A) i reach my optimum speed asap and maintain that as long as i could. i keep a distance with the car in front so i do not need to depress the brake in case the car slows down. i just need to release the accelerator.
B) as for main roads, i pickup at rpm to 2 max and maintain speed. try not to have sudden surge of speed
i reach my half way mark and clocked a total distance of 310
i was surprised too at the reading, even double check to see if the reading is correct :bleh:
btw, i'm on 16" 205/50. my previous readings before this experiment is around 13 to 14km/l best. hope can better this :)
on 60 expressway and 40 main roads :smile:
Happy that u guys benefitted from the info that i posted :thumbsup:
U guys dun argue with the fuel got cut or no cut lar....all started becos of me :crycry: but as long as it saves fuel and money by using engine brake rather than our brakes no need to argue got cut no cut lar.....win liao also no trophy :zipped:
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I try this technique,
I realised PIE and BKE or KJE, a lot of slope, whenever, there is a downward slope, I free my gear to N, gain 10 to 20km/hr, on downward driving. If you travel often from North to West often, you know what I meant. Then keep speed around 65 to 75km to achieve low rpm (1.2 to 1.5). Pick up slowly,especially 1st gear, at traffic junction. Shift to N at Stop position.
Results : 630KM cover with 35L or 410 with 22L of petrol.
Just ondering, this shifting gear from N to D, will it damage or wear out the gear faster ?
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hi bro, u should minus 2~3 l to calculate the correct FC mah..rite? :devil2:
[/quote
U will jealous or not :devil2:
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I try this technique,
I realised PIE and BKE or KJE, a lot of slope, whenever, there is a downward slope, I free my gear to N, gain 10 to 20km/hr, on downward driving. If you travel often from North to West often, you know what I meant. Then keep speed around 65 to 75km to achieve low rpm (1.2 to 1.5). Pick up slowly,especially 1st gear, at traffic junction. Shift to N at Stop position.
Results : 630KM cover with 35L or 410 with 22L of petrol.
Just ondering, this shifting gear from N to D, will it damage or wear out the gear faster ?
Travel at speeds of 65-75 in expressway? :blink: will road hog or not?
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u shouldn't cruse in N. it damages your gearbox.
I try this technique,
I realised PIE and BKE or KJE, a lot of slope, whenever, there is a downward slope, I free my gear to N, gain 10 to 20km/hr, on downward driving. If you travel often from North to West often, you know what I meant. Then keep speed around 65 to 75km to achieve low rpm (1.2 to 1.5). Pick up slowly,especially 1st gear, at traffic junction. Shift to N at Stop position.
Results : 630KM cover with 35L or 410 with 22L of petrol.
Just ondering, this shifting gear from N to D, will it damage or wear out the gear faster ?
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Yes, idling is discouraged because idling occurs when you stop, which means engine rpm is not enough to keep engine running without using fuel.
At high speeds like 45 and above(for me), when u lift your leg off accelerator, fuel injection stop, thus engine braking. If you don't believe, try this:
1.Get your speed up to 70-80km/h.
2.Release accelerator. Your car speed should slow down very fast. This is engine braking, and no fuel is being consumed at this point.
3.At around 45km/h, you should feel a jerk as fuel injection resumes and your car is free wheeling(less engine braking).
This is tried and tested on 4AT. For CVT, your mileage may vary.
i do get the engine braking feel when i life off the acceleratior after i hit 80 or 90km/h. when it fall till 60km/h, i step again to pick up to 80/90 loh.
but 2 questions here>>
1)when i approaching traffic light, is it better for me to swtich to N then slowly break & rest at N
or
i brake slowly to a stop (in D mode) then switch to N to wait for traffic light to turn green?
which is better >??
2)Since idling is discouraged, if i am stopping at traffic light, do i switch to N or P or leave it at D??
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The Versa Service manual states (CVT):
Lock-up clutch is engaged when vehicle speed is approximately 18 km/h (11 MPH) to 90 km/h (56 MPH).
It is likely that DFCO is maintained at least until lock-up is disengaged. Lifting the foot off the accelerator pedal quickly tends to nudge the ECU into DFCO. A quick gentle tap helps to cancel DFCO. Watch the tach + speedometer and you can guess what the ECU/TCM are up to.
For CVT's, the highest gear ratio gets you 10km/h for every 200rpm. So 80km/h happens at 1600rpm. Accelerating in an overly enthusiastic manner will guarantee that the TCM (transmission control module) never allows this gear ratio until you brake/shift into N/etc... and re-accelerate at a more moderate pace.
While the HR15DE generates maximum torque at ~4400rpm, it does not mean that the engine is actually generating peak torque at 4400rpm under all conditions. It really depends on the engine load. Idling the engine at 4400rpm is not going to give you 140Nm of torque. There is an interplay between throttle, RPM and transmission loading.
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u shouldn't cruse in N. it damages your gearbox.
Is there any proof of this? Because some cars do, some cars don't.
Specifically, latio repair manual?
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The Versa Service manual states (CVT):
It is likely that DFCO is maintained at least until lock-up is disengaged. Lifting the foot off the accelerator pedal quickly tends to nudge the ECU into DFCO. A quick gentle tap helps to cancel DFCO. Watch the tach + speedometer and you can guess what the ECU/TCM are up to.
For CVT's, the highest gear ratio gets you 10km/h for every 200rpm. So 80km/h happens at 1600rpm. Accelerating in an overly enthusiastic manner will guarantee that the TCM (transmission control module) never allows this gear ratio until you brake/shift into N/etc... and re-accelerate at a more moderate pace.
While the HR15DE generates maximum torque at ~4400rpm, it does not mean that the engine is actually generating peak torque at 4400rpm under all conditions. It really depends on the engine load. Idling the engine at 4400rpm is not going to give you 140Nm of torque. There is an interplay between throttle, RPM and transmission loading.
Bro u sibei technical in ur post :thumbsup: but hor too chim i see liao :blink: just wondering are u a engineer?
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hi bro, u should minus 2~3 l to calculate the correct FC mah..rite? :devil2:
[/quote
U will jealous or not :devil2:
hi bro, not jealous lah, envy more likely :bleh:..my last FC only at 12.5km/l bcos of total jammed hr @90mins (both in and out from Sg)
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Is there any proof of this? Because some cars do, some cars don't.
Specifically, latio repair manual?
not specific to latio. when u set your car to N, first you are not saving fuel because you are not utilizing the fuel cut off feature. it is also not safe as you are depending on your brake solely for braking. since our brake work on a pump pulled by the engine, a slightly higher rpm also gives the pump more power to brake. try slamming that E brake while coasting in N at 50kph. u will know what I mean.
next if you switch from N back to D, there is a sudden surge in the torque you will surely damage your gears over time. the constant switching in and out of gear also wears out your torque converter lockup mechanism and your gearbox valves that switches the planetary gears. i'm not sure how much modern gearboxes have changed but i'm pretty sure it's still planetary gears for 4AT. CVT is a different story and I would tend to believe it's more fragile due to the steel belt design. of course if you are going to sell your car after 5 years, i believe most gearboxes will live by it.
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......
next if you switch from N back to D, there is a sudden surge in the torque ......
and worst if some one horn you, you kan chong accidently shift to R and ram your right foot. :scared: such accident do happen :nonod:.
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Latio fuel tank is how many liter huh? 4get liao...
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Latio fuel tank is how many liter huh? 4get liao...
45L. :smile:
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thanks bro!
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and worst if some one horn you, you kan chong accidently shift to R and ram your right foot. :scared: such accident do happen :nonod:.
Erm....if u do not know....u can switch from N to D to N without pressing the button on the gear stick.....if u do this switching without pressing the button on the gear stick....then u can't engage into R gear.....so there wun be mistake and accident lor....
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Thats right. Push, not press.
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but stopping at traffic lights, sometime i put to N also.. Lazy to step on brake haha
i try to switch to D be the light turn green haha
is this okie???
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hi bro, it's OK as long as yr car has stopped but not cruise in N till station before traffic light (this is what I understand from the post above), correct me if i'm wrong.
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Erm....if u do not know....u can switch from N to D to N without pressing the button on the gear stick.....if u do this switching without pressing the button on the gear stick....then u can't engage into R gear.....so there wun be mistake and accident lor....
That's why I said if the person kan chong... It will still happen if the person blur blur.
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hmm.. does Shell's V-power help to improve FC significantly? I tried it for the first time today and found that my engine is smoother, but i don't feel any significant increase in torque or "power".
I'm currently getting 21km/litre on my sports premium. Everything is stock except no spare-tyre and doing 99% h'way and tyres overinflated to 240psi. Driving alone most of e time.
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hmm.. does Shell's V-power help to improve FC significantly? I tried it for the first time today and found that my engine is smoother, but i don't feel any significant increase in torque or "power".
I'm currently getting 21km/litre on my sports premium. Everything is stock except no spare-tyre and doing 99% h'way and tyres overinflated to 240psi. Driving alone most of e time.
hi space2638, it's 21km/l or 12km/l :confused1:..If it's confirmed 21km/l, then why still bother abt FC, it's already superb liao :bleh:
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but stopping at traffic lights, sometime i put to N also.. Lazy to step on brake haha
i try to switch to D be the light turn green haha
is this okie???
This is okay as long as the road is flat...some roads there is a gentle slope down....if u put to N and dun step on brake...the car will slide forward slowly....and before you know it...opps...u might bang into the car in front of you.....so beware...
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hi space2638, it's 21km/l or 12km/l :confused1:..If it's confirmed 21km/l, then why still bother abt FC, it's already superb liao :bleh:
21km/l. haha.... 99% hway.. provided no jams. jam i usually kee siao and start to drive more violently so that wrecks the great FC.
i hope it can go even higher! haha... i accelrate very slowly... never above 2.2krpm. and typically cruise just over 100kph
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21km/l. haha.... 99% hway.. provided no jams. jam i usually kee siao and start to drive more violently so that wrecks the great FC.
i hope it can go even higher! haha... i accelrate very slowly... never above 2.2krpm. and typically cruise just over 100kph
patience guy. :thumbsup:
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patience guy. :thumbsup:
Lets have an example. Suppose you are on a journey with 10 stops.
A car accelerating at constant 2.5k rpm will reach cruising speed, eg 80km/h, around 5 seconds faster than a car accelerating at constant 2k rpm.
5 seconds per stop, 5sec x 10stops = 50sec per journey.
Would you mind arriving at your destination a minute later? Yes, there are other reasons for wanting to accelerate faster, but this is just a simple example of how reving off at the start line doesn't really make a difference for your journey time.
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no use one lah, one L plate or bus making a right turn right before you and there goes all your time advantage. It is better to rev to pass the traffic light while green than to rev from a complete stop.
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21km/l. haha.... 99% hway.. provided no jams. jam i usually kee siao and start to drive more violently so that wrecks the great FC.
i hope it can go even higher! haha... i accelrate very slowly... never above 2.2krpm. and typically cruise just over 100kph
hi space2638
wa ko, how u drive? for most of the people, fall asleep for sure lah
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hi space2638, it's 21km/l or 12km/l :confused1:..If it's confirmed 21km/l, then why still bother abt FC, it's already superb liao :bleh:
Hi LatioR
I cannot disagree with you man!
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Mine always at 11km/L . . even after change to full synthetic oil and super light foot.. just like dragonfly touch water..
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Ying, I'm talking about when moving off from the stop line. I agree, it is best to time the traffic lights so we can go past when green, but sometimes stopping is inevitable. Thats why we must look ahead, and not just at the traffic light facing us, but the lights for the sideway direction as well. This takes a lot of practice and knowledge of the traffic light rules.
apoca, light footed is definitely not the best for FC. I've tried that in the past, but now I find accelerating at constant ~2k rpm yields better results. Also the reason for your low numbers might be due to traffic jams, ferrying alot of people, using brakes unnecessarily etc etc.
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Ying, I'm talking about when moving off from the stop line. I agree, it is best to time the traffic lights so we can go past when green, but sometimes stopping is inevitable. Thats why we must look ahead, and not just at the traffic light facing us, but the lights for the sideway direction as well. This takes a lot of practice and knowledge of the traffic light rules.
apoca, light footed is definitely not the best for FC. I've tried that in the past, but now I find accelerating at constant ~2k rpm yields better results. Also the reason for your low numbers might be due to traffic jams, ferrying alot of people, using brakes unnecessarily etc etc.
hi SoL
2000rpm is just nice to drive (CVT Latio) @ around 100km/h. quite gd for FC with lightfooted and dun anyhow accelerate with a inconsistent speed.